Restaurant Dispatch from Portland, Oregon
Kirk Warner
The times that I’ve visited the Rose City of Portland I am always blown away with the breadth of restaurants available to the residents of such a small city. I asked my Uber driver who supports all of these fine eating establishments, to which he replied “people who work at the other restaurants” and, after a short pause “visitors”. As a recent visitor I was super excited to score a table at the tiny restaurant on the Western outskirts of town: Coquine (https://www.coquinepdx.com). In a city where almost all the exciting restaurants are in neighborhoods or in unexpected spaces tucked around the corner from an airbnb (my first restaurant visited was in a retrofitted garage/car dealership), Coquine is a bit of a drive from everything. Getting to it can be part of the pleasure, it really allows you to take in the “quirk” of PDX. Bathtubs in the front yard made into planters or bungee lines between houses, it is the city that started the “Keep ____ Weird” movement now popularized in college towns. Once at Coquine however any idea for strangeness goes straight out the window. It is a restaurant with incredible restraint and finesse. One where I could easily pick out produce in the dishes featuring items from the early season Portland Farmer’s Market i’d stepped through that morning. In a city where part of the charm is controlled chaos, it is a charming place that serves delicious, simple food that looks easy to make (but is absolutely not). One of my favorite dishes was a Leek Vinaigrette Salad with Shaved Raw Cauliflower, here is my much less subtle version with roasted cauliflower with crisp prosciutto:
Little Gem Salad with Roasted Cauliflower & Crisp Prosciutto
Little Gem or Romaine Lettuce, Washed & Chopped 6 Cups
Radicchio, Washed & Chopped ½ Small Head
Crusty Bread, Cubed 2 Cups
Butter, Melted ¼ Cup
Kosher Salt & Fresh Black Pepper To Taste
Cauliflower, Cut into 1/8, Sliced ½ “ thick ½ Head
Kosher Salt & Fresh Black Pepper To Taste
Extra Virgin Olive Oil As Needed
Prosciutto, Sliced (Parma or San Daniele) 2-3oz.
Lemon Balsamic Vinaigrette (Makes 2 Cups, Whisk to Combine)
Balsamic Vinegar, (Good but Not Great) 1/3 Cup
Dijon Mustard 2 Tablespoons
Fresh Lemon Juice 1 Lemon
Extra Virgin Olive Oil 1 ¼ Cups
Herbs, Minced (Chives, Parsley and Thyme) 2 Tablespoons
Kosher Salt & Fresh Black Pepper To Taste
Preparation Procedure-
Preheat oven to 375d.. Toss cubed bread with melted butter/oil and season thoroughly with salt & pepper. Spread out on sheet pan and bake on bottom rack in oven until browned and crisp, about 18-20 minutes. Toss cut cauliflower with olive oil, salt and pepper until just coated. Carefully wrap in thin slice of prosciutto and lay on parchment lined sheet tray. (You’ll want 2-3 pieces per person.) Bake prosciutto wrapped cauliflower until prosciutto starts to crisp and cauliflower becomes tender 15-20 minutes. Allow to cool.
Arrange lettuce and radicchio on plate, top with crushed croutons (use a food processor or mortar/pestle for this) and cauliflower. Drizzle with lemon-balsamic dressing.